Restaurants
Cairns is the tourism capital of North Queensland, so not surprisingly, there is an impressive range of fine restaurants. While eating places are scattered liberally around the city and surrounds, there are a couple of major ‘precincts’ of use to the culinary traveller for different styles of eating and drinking.
Many fine restaurants grace the streets of Cairns and a number of notable Australian restaurateurs have chosen to make their base in Cairns, much to our tastebuds' delight! In town there are two main precincts where you can walk a block and peruse half a dozen restaurants. Many other restaurants are scattered around the six blocks that comprise the City Centre.
Of note are Shields St between Grafton and Sheridan, The Esplanade between Shields and Florence, and Spence St between Lake and Grafton. Walk around a bit, have a look at the Yellow Pages (local phone directory) or ask a local………..
There is a delicious selection of cuisine to be found in Cairns including Japanese, Thai, Seafood, Italian, Chinese, Greek, Aussie bushfoods, contemporary and nouvelle cuisine.
If you fancy Italian, try Damari’s at the Pier, Pescis down on the boardwalk at the Pier, La Fettuccina on Shields and Roma Roulette. If you like pasta though, many of the nouvelle/modern cuisine have various pasta dishes, so peruse the sidewalk menus many have out for your convenience.
Cairns has long been a popular destination with Japanese tourists, so understandably, there is a good choice of Japanese eateries. Yama on the cnr of Spence and Grafton is well priced and good quality. Pay particular attention to the photos on the walls of the sushi chef in a previous incarnation. Try Cherry Blossom and Yamagen for more upmarket formal Japanese dining. Spence Street/Grafton Street/Lake Street block has numerous Asian restaurants, Korean, Noodle Bars etc.
Bangkok Room on Spence Street is a favourite Thai (and they deliver), and Bangkok Rose in Stratford also has a solid reputation. Suda Thai in Edge Hill is good for affordable takeaways. North of the CBD try the Thai place at Machans Beach and Veg out in Thailand at the Campus Shopping Centre Smithfield (near the Uni).
Café China on Spence Street has a new noodle bar adjacent to the more formal Chinese restaurant, particularly good for Yum Cha everyday or a Seafood Laksa that'll fill your belly and clear your sinuses!
If you're after uniquely Australian ingredients, hit the award-winning Red Ochre restaurant located on the corner of Shields and Sheridan, which specialise in bushfoods. Many restaurants nowadays have kangaroo, crocodile and other exciting bushfoods items on their menu, so it’s back to checking out those sidewalk menus again!
Yannis, on the corner of Grafton and Aplin Streets and Fettas on Abbott Street are both fine Greek restaurants.
Perotta’s at the Gallery, the Victory Café on Shields, Gypsy Dees on Shields and Eclipse on Aplin Street all have interesting progressive Australian Menus.
There are many cafés of course, but one worth mentioning is Le Cake at Rusty’s Markets – everything handmade daily including the bread and croissants. Try the set lunch weekdays, one choice only and it’s always delicious. Otherwise I head around the corner in Spence Street to Café Cyclone for the Eggs Benedict, or Beethovens on Grafton Street, for some wicked Swiss Pastries and sandwiches.
For deluxe breakfasts, try Perotta’s at the Gallery or Lifestyle Café at Cairns Central. If vegetarian and fresh juices are your thing, try Tiny’s (Grafton Street) and SoulFoods (Tropical Arcade) as they cater specifically for fresh juice and wholefoods fans.
There are many Foodcourts based mainly in shopping centre situations which are good for inexpensive but filling meals when you’re in a hurry. In the city there's the Pier Marketplace (under the Radisson), the Nightmarkets Foodcourt, the Meeting Place, The famous Esplanade, and Cairns Central. In outlying areas you have the major shopping centres Stockland Earlville, Smithfield, Festival Faire. In all of these you will find small counter vendors of the "modern food styles" ie Chinese, Thai, Italian, Seafood, Steaks, Sandwiches, Noodle bars etc, and one or two of the global foodmoguls like McDonalds and KFC. Expect to pay between A$5.50 and A$12.50 for a meal and a drink, usually consumed takeaway or in a communal eating area for all outlets.
The Noodle Bar at the Pier, Mikaku Japanese at Cairns Central, and Thai at the Meeting Place are good places to head to when looking for a cheap feed.
Pubs and Bars
The range of drinking holes in Cairns runs the gamut from historic pubs, beergardens and Irish bars, to cocktail bars and swish bars tucked away in five star hotels.
If it's a great view you're after, try Mondo’s at the Hilton and The Chapel on the Esplanade which are both modern bar/restaurants with a great aspect. Try them when there’s a full moon for some tropical magic.
The Sports Bar has a pumping commercial playlist, very much a locals' club but many travellers get in there too. The Underdog has live music often and an outside beergarden. By day, still the blue singlet brigade's lunchtime amber stop, but at night is more of a nightclub.
The most famous bar in Cairns is Johnos Blues Bar known as "the biggest little gig in Australia." They often showcase international blues artists and in the last couple of years have diversified their bookings into the World Music and alternative areas. Named after famous local identity 'Johno', who fronts various bands and is known for his quirky dress sense and sense of fun.
Irish pubs are the flavour of the month and there's plenty of places to get your guiness in Cairns. Some of the better known ones are
Gilhooleys at the Pier, which has a glorious verandah looking back towards the Esplanade and Willie McBrides at the Fig Tree, a small cosy Irish pub a bit out of town. They are known for turning the airconditioning up so they can have a fire going! PJ O’Briens is an international chain and word is the food is excellent. It's right in the heart of town.
Two great places to visit for a decadent holidaycocktail or two are the Palm Court at the Hilton and the Cairns International. Both have comfy low lounge chairs just perfect for sipping a Mai Tai. Palm Court has a mean list of martinis, a selection of Cuban cigars and often someone is doing something of a musical persuasion on the grand piano as well. A feature of this foyer bar at the Cairns International is the regular weekend $30 Margarita Brunches – a full breakfast and lunch buffet plus jugs of Margarita’s brought to your tables. Don’t eat the night before! Live Jazz and Easy listening music as well.
Nightlife
Cairns is notorious for having lots of happening nightlife, from great dance venues to live bands and foam parties. And the best thing is that it's all within walking (or staggering!) distance. Here's a few venues to whet your party appetite.
Tropos is a longtime favorite with locals and you can see from a mile off due to their very well lit balcony. It's a mainstream party club with resident dancers with drink prices around the $4 mark.
The Playpen is similar in culture to Tropos, but has a much bigger space to work with. It features live bands and during the week it tends towards stripshows and touring "revue" style shows. Has pool tables and a stage, but expect to hear top 40 dance hits and classic rock all night. The Fox n Firkin looks like an English bar, but to their credit they’ve carved a niche for themselves by having a steady stream of local bands playing there. The food is quite cheap and in generous quantities and is popular with the lunchtime office crowd and backpackers. Arguably the most stylish dance club in Cairns is 1936 at the Reef Casino. The décor is sophisticated, the dress code strict and the music fairly mainstream.
The Woolshed Chargrill on Shields Street, is firmly ensconced as the backpacker party pub in Cairns. Always plenty of travellers moshing about inside and despite the absence of signs of any kind, somehow everybody just knows they’re allowed to dance on the tables, though slip off those Cuban heels girls! Expect to hear mainstream dance favourites interspersed with classic disco and retro tunes, all via the video hits system they have there.
Besides the mainstream clubs, there's a healthy selection of alternative venues to get amongst.
The Cuban Club which is downstairs at the Woolshed, is essentially a dance/house venue with local DJs cranking it up there on a regular basis. A regular club for dance and house fans, though those looking for anything other than straightup dance and house may be disappointed.